Wednesday, February 4, 2009

Tongariro National Park, New Zealand



There is something exciting about setting off with strangers that can't be avoided. A chance to get to know someone new and experience an amazing place never before seen by either party. It's the feeling of discovery, not just of the environment in which we live, but a discovery of our own interactions with others. Apprehension can consume at first, but eventually this passes and you are left with the understanding that people are different, but no matter what separates them, each can appreciate awe-inspiring natural beauty.

Our discovery began with a harrowing escape from Tauranga. It wasn't dangerous in the least, just unlikely we would have ever left without asking for directions. With a hand-drawn map and broken English captions we made our way south, through Rotorua for a quick fix of hydrogen-sulfide (geyser flatulence), and a quick swim in Lake Taupo. We arrived in Tongariro (Mordor minus the fire and brimstone) a little later than expected and decided to stay at one of the many DOC (Department of Conservation) free campsites.

On a side note, New Zealand is incredibly good at providing free camping, park access, and information. The best way by far to see this country is in a rented vehicle. Whether you are shacking up in a campervan, old-school corolla, or a newly minted Toyota it's the only way to travel. There is so much to see you really need the flexibility of being your own guide, especially if trying to travel on the cheap. In fact, you can even buy a used car for what it would cost to rent for a month or two. This is a good option if arriving early in the season and departing with time to spare. The closer to winter you get the pool of buyers for resale decreases sharply.

Our first night camping was at a DOC (Department of Conservation) campsite about 30 kilometers south of Turangi on Motorway 1. Urchin was a good site, with decent toilets, and access to several shorts tracks. The only downside was that the nearest water was approximately 2 kilometers away. If you are looking for seclusion, this is the place. We were the only campers and didn't see another car on the 3 kilometer drive from the motorway.

The site provided good access to the National Park and the tourist center in Turangi was very helpful, even after hours. The next morning we made for the trail head at Magnatepopo Rd. around 7:00 a.m. and dropped two people off. Jokingly one of my travel mates said, "how's that for German efficiency." A quick witted response for my remarks about our directional debacle the day before.

Because of the uncertainty of catching shuttles from the trail end back to the carpark at Magnatepopo we decided the third person would drop the car at an adventure outing company and pay to take the shuttle back to the trail head. This saved us a little cash by not paying for three fares on the shuttle, but also allowed us a safe and reliable alternative to leaving the car in the carpark (parking lot for all those unaffiliated with kiwi verbiage).

The ascent to the red crater isn't too steep and despite chilly temperatures and wind (typical of alpine tracks) a pleasant walk. The rugged landscape, etched by ancient flows of lava, ash, wind, and rain create a spectacular natural display.

The walk totals 19.1 kilometers and ends in a slow decent to about the same elevation from the start, 1100 meters above sea level. The highest point is at 1900 meters above sea level and offers tremendous views of the valley's below. Overall, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing was a great day!


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