Picton - Dunedin, New Zealand

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As expected this trip has taken on a whole new style. My first two weeks were aboard a luxury ship called the Clipper Odyssey. It was an experience not to be forgotten and certainly cherished for the rest of my life. Since disembarkation in Auckland I have had a little over a month to explore the exploits of New Zealand. Meeting people, eating food, and ultimately returning to the role of a backpacker.

Despite my most incredible experiences on the North Island, it has always been my intention to return to the South Island. Wild, untamed, and a bit more dramatic - it's suits my pursuits. So, what better way to travel than in the same fashion.  As mentioned in previous posts, hitchhiking was the preferred method of getting around.   

The above map plots most of the places I covered in two weeks and describes in brief detail a few of my experiences.  It is incomplete, but more of a method to help me remember this time. Things were moving very fast and people were coming and going by the hour.  It was so easy to get attached, but so hard to remember the details.  So, here is a quick glimpse.

Late to the ferry, running, conversation, lowered gang plank, no tickets, no problem. Ten-thirty p.m.  disembarkation, WWII ship snoop/tour, walked 8 kms., bed behind park hedge, a literal tree hugger.

A Japanese cultural exchange with couple and 1.5 year old daughter, blown kisses goodbye, bowing, and the sharing of good-will.  Walked 17 kms to Richmond, late arrival, talked to a local, a little b&e (actually just trespassing),  woke neighbors (security), caught, made friends with dog, conversation, got permission,  found Heineken, stinky feet, sleeping at the track.  End of day two. 

Hugs goodbye, new friend Lou, good advice, shifter on dash, big blisters, lots of chocolate for lunch.  Met a German artist who lives in house truck on reclusive psychologists land.  Felt like I stiffed a ride share but had no change, felt bad.  Met Peter and saw genuine hospitality.  Offered water, place to swim, and took me to trail head.  Broke tent pole, rigged, and slept by the sea.

See Abel Tasman post.

Planned to camp next to river in Motueka.  Met Aussie and Norwegian in park.  Joined by crazy Scot/Mongolian healer.  Share manuka honey small-batch whisky.  Thought I had a ride until it started to rain.  Had enough, made run for rock garden shelter.  Late, nowhere to crash, bedded down until security guard put foot down.  Wandered until I found place to pitch tent.  Broke tent pole, tape and half-assed effort.  Slept in a puddle.

Checked into a hostel.  Did laundry.  Bounced with Jake and Amy.  Saw vineyards, Westport, lots of rain, sheep shearing, and pink camoflage visors.  Shot bb guns at fair and got dropped off.  Started walking, met two hitch hikers.  Nice, but three's a crowd.  Walked about 4 kms then got pissed when  car was driving by recklessly.  Saw my friends in the back, Amy was driving - awesome.  Chilled for three days.  Hugs goodbye.

Glaciers, rain.  Cards, more rain.  Movies, rain.  Hiking, rain.  Franz Josef Fox Glacier were good, but it rained.  Hugs goodbye, walked towards Fox Glacier, met Henrick.  Debated the taste of kina, talked politics, music and walked.  Grabbed ride to Wanaka.  Henrick knows friend of mine from S. America that lives in Australia.  Camped, hugs goodbye.

Started walking to Queenstown.  Met Steve, off-duty cabbie, ride gratis.  Personal tour, great convo.  Steve rode Harley in U.S.A.  Six kms. into town, hoofed, warp speed.  Visited friend in Crowne Plaza, no shower.  Bought pad, got cheap supermarket lasangna, met dude at outdoor store, found best camp site in town.  $250 a night view, gratis.  Slept under stars overlooking Queenstown.

Six kms. out, met Swiss girl on road.  Hitch-Buddy.  No-luck, started walking due South.  English couple and 12 year old daughter pick-up.  A lot of fun.  Third degree from little girl.  Hugs good-bye.  Had coffee at cross-roads, desolate, made card-board sign.  Logger pick-up, Winton drop-off.  Walked a couple kms, bought new knife, Alan pickup.  "Where to?"  Invers.  "I'll take you to the museum, good place to start."  Great convo.  Handshakes goodbye.  Cool town, great garden, ok museum.  Walked through town, stopped Pak-n-Save, bought supplies.  Germans, a little odd, but friendly.  Were off to Bluff, pictures at southernmost point.  No camp, roadside it is.  Broke tent pole.  Tape.

German eggs, toast, cheese.  Sunrise over beautiful waterway and alumnimum smelter.  Hugs goodbye.  Walking, ride with Contractor.  Business slow, can't pour slab without more boards.  "Dunedin 150 miles that-a-way, good luck!"  Not much traffic, bad idea?  Walked 10 kms., crazy Wisconsin pickup.  Great couple, nice, drove me all through Catlins, 10 kms. to DOC campsite.  Rock-hopping, wet feet, keep the tape.  Hugs goodbye.  Frenchmen, friendly.  Best sleep.  Beautiful waves, breeze.

Ride to road with Frenchman.  "Maybe our paths will cross.  Chau."  Walked 10 kms. to Okawa.  Mist, rain, but pleasant.  Passed friends from day before.  They were backtracking.  Ian, ex equity trader pickup.  Ride to Dunedin.  "Gotta love those Dutch water polo players you meat in Thailand."  Coffee, Internet, Michael pickup.  Shower, proper dinner, conversation.  Good to be off road.

Rain, laundry, Cadbury factory, stories, etc. out to eat, good fun.  A day to rest, awesome roast.  A round at the links, couldn't putt.  Met family, friends, toured Otago University, cricket match rained out.  Fine wine and laughs.  Booked trip to Aus., compiled notes, cleaned out food in bag. Hugs good-bye.  Off to Brisbane.

As you can see, describing the events of the previous two weeks in detail would take longer than the two weeks it took to actually live.  I can't count how many times I said hello but I can count the hugs goodbye. To sum things up, the people are incredible, genuine and willing to help.  The roads are good, and the parks are awesome.  Milk is cheap and folks love to share how they live with whoever is interested.